SAMPSON'S FARM, PELDON
An aerial view of Sampson's Farm and its barns. Photo by Jack Botham 1963
Sampson's Farmhouse in Peldon is located up a long private lane close to the sea wall and is owned and occupied by farmers, Robert Davidson & Son Ltd. The Davidsons have been farming in Essex since the 1920's and settled in Brick House Farm, Peldon, in 1946. The Grade II listed barn next to Sampson's farmhouse ceased being used for agricultural work in the seventies and was converted into two private houses in 2006.
Brick House Farm, Newpot's and Sampson's have been farmed as one since the nineteenth century, and added to in more recent times by land that once belonged to Games, White House, Ransome's and Grove Farm - the latter largely in Little Wigborough.
The farm has grown exponentially... with the current acreage at around 1350 ha
[3,336 acres]
with a mix of cropping that
includes continuous winter wheat on the home farm plus, elsewhere, some marrowfat peas and then increasingly
crops for energy, with rye on the lighter land and then maize grown for both foraging as well as for the
combine. On top of this area, another 800-1200 ha of maize and rye are foraged for neighbours as well.
[6th October 2022: John Swire 'Agronomist and Arable Farmer']
The name 'Sampson's' is a very ancient one, appearing in the Domesday Book as 'Samantuna' and it is very likely there was a small hamlet called Sampson's with a small wharf.
In the distant past the house and land has been known as Sampson's Farm, Abbots Wick, Sampton's and Sampton Wick. There is one reference in an advert for a 'Live and Dead' farm stock sale in 1830 to 'Sampson's or Marsh Farm'.
The word wick would indicate hundreds of years ago there had been a dairy there by the sea wall. These wicks,
which can be found all along the Essex coast, were little more than shepherds' huts where sheep, grazing on
the low-lying marshes of this coast, were milked and Essex Cheese was made from their milk.
[See article on Essex Cheese ]
Going back further in time, just north of Sampson's Farmhouse there are two outlines of Red Hills in the soil,
a feature of the Essex coastline. In 1973 Kay de Brisay excavated a Red Hill nearby on Bonner's Marshes in
Peldon and subsequently produced a report entitled The Excavation of a Red Hill at Peldon. She
concluded the Red Hills were the result of the salt-making industry. This was at its height in the late Iron
Age and early Roman period.
Clay-lined tanks were made and filled by the incoming tide, this allowed some natural evaporation but also allowed impurities to settle, the salt water was then placed in rough clay pots or pans which were stood on pedestals and gently heated over a fire. Many of these receptacles broke in the process and along with the tell-tale fired red soil many fragments of this broken pottery can be found, often referred to as briquetage.
Map from Kay de Brisay's article in the Antiquities Journal showing Red Hills in and around Peldon
[Available online - see llws-colchester.esdm.co.uk/LLFiles/2510/full_2510.pdf]
Upon the Romans' departure from Britain these salt-workings were abandoned and the slightly raised areas of ground formed by these red hills were often used as sites for wicks and also acted as a refuge for the flocks of sheep when, as sometimes happened, the sea inundated the marshland.
The Davidsons report
We also have a lot of red earth where during Roman times they produced salt. These are on low lying land where
the sea was let in Liz Davidson by Email
Former Peldon resident, Pat Moore, researching the history of her house went on to look at Sampsons and clearly had access to its deeds which I have not seen.
The other 'discovery' is I believe the site of the lost village or settlement mentioned in the deeds of Sampsons Farm. The Tithe Map clearly shows an almost circular ditched area called Rye Hill. Farmer Robert Davidson says this was first ploughed up in the last war and that the plough turns up a lot of glazed pottery. It is my belief that this is the site of 'Sampton'. The farm deeds clearly state it to be situated in Peldon and Sampton, this could have been the centre of the salt-making industry that left our marshes scattered with Red Hills and which died out about AD 400. Certainly, the old road to the Ray Creek passes within one field of it. Sadly, ploughing has removed all trace of the circular ditch and its carefully contrived entrance, thank goodness for the diligence of the cartographers.
There are three entries in the Domesday Book for Peldon and, in all the entries, the survey compares the value
of the land in 1086 with that of twenty years previous at the point just before King Edward the Confessor's death. The text is in Latin and heavily abbreviated.
One of these three entries refers to 'Samantuna' situated in 'Wensistrey'; Winstree being the name of the local Hundred (administrative area); today the hundred is called Winstred.
The entry tells us that Samantuna was owned by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, (half-brother of William the Conqueror).
"The Bishop of Bayeux
"Winstree Hundred Ralph son of Turold [Fitzturold] holds Sampsons of the Bishop, which 2 free men held as
half a hide * and 35 acres. Then as now half a plough. Now 2 bordars [smallholders]. It was then worth 16s;
now 15.
* The 'hide' is a tax assessment rather than an actual acreage but it is generally accepted it was around 120 acres, and the reference to a 'plough' indicates a team of eight oxen. At the time of Domesday, it seems there were approximately 95 acres of land belonging to Sampson's.
It is interesting that in his history of Essex, published in 1768, Philip Morant refers to Peldon and Sampson's as two separate places. He refers to 'Samptons Wyke' as a 'capital messuage' indicating it was a high-status if not a manor house.
The names of the fields 'Great Fair Field' and Little Fair Field' (which appear in the 1840 tithe awards) give further indication there was a settlement there and the fact that there was a small wharf navigable by boats would have made this a small 'port' for the village of Peldon for hundreds of years.
In the Victorian era, produce from the area was loaded on flat-bottomed sailing barges and taken to the capital; muck from London's horses was brought back and spread on local fields. The Davidsons tell me
we have some very rich dark soil next to the old creek where the barges used to bring manure out of London & then take hay back
Liz Davidson by Email
The house, Sampson's Farm, which stands today is not listed and most likely replaces other houses of the same name but, as we shall see, it appears to have some very old timbers.
In the 1930s the Churchwarden, N.O.R. Sergeant made notes on the history of the Church and Peldon's older buildings including Sampson's which he clearly visited.
Sampson's Farm. There is little doubt that some sort of dwelling, probably occupying the present site, has
existed here for many centuries. The original form of the name 'Samantuna' is certainly taken from one of the
medieval surveys... How old the present Sampson's Farm is I should scarcely like to venture an opinion. There
is evidence of alterations or re-build but some fine beams and timber-work may still be seen. It is possible
that part at least of the frame of the house may rank among the most ancient structures in the parish.
[ERO D/P 287/28/7 Notes for a history of Peldon N.O.R. Serjeant]
After Domesday the first document I have found is in a collection of Feet of Fines which were documents recording a final legal decision as to the right to a particular piece of land. This document from 1202 refers to 'Semanneston'. These early documents are rather obscure to modern readers but I have tried to unpick the meaning!
1202 Octave of S Matthew at Chelmaref. M-aurin Fitz Swan demandant M-auger de Wiggeberg tenant. Half a hide of land with appurtenances in Semanneston. Recognition of mort d'ancestre. Demanent quitclaimed to tenant. Consideration 20 shillings sterling
The Mauger or Malger family came to England at the time of the Norman Conquest and were associated with eighteen places in England in the Domesday book of 1086 as tenants. Locally, Tolleshunt Major was originally known as Tolleshunt Mauger and the family held land in Tolleshunt D'Arcy and Tolleshunt Knights.
To unpick what the entry above means we turn again to the former Peldon churchwarden's explanation from his notes on the village's history.
Mauger of Wigborough held a portion of land, and probably the buildings on it, on what is now Sampson's Farm.
Another individual called Maurin Fitz (i.e. son of) Swan claimed the land. A plea something like a modern law
of inheritance was put in, and Fitz Swan agreed to forego his claim in consideration of a cash payment of
20/-. [ERO D/P 287/28/7 Notes for a history of Peldon N.O.R. Sergeant]
The 'half a hide' would indicate approximately 60 acres.
The 'octave of S Matthew' is the eighth day after 21st September, known as St Matthew's Feast Day so the matter was settled at Chelmsford on Sept 29th 1202. This was Michaelmas Day and traditionally the day on which land was exchanged, debts were paid and new servants were hired.
The Verley Family [also spelt Virley, Verli and Virli]
Following the scant paper trail we next find Sampson's in a document of 1275 referred to by Philip Morant.
Morant in his entry for the village of 'Salcot Virley' in the 1768 History of Essex writes
The family of Verli, though at first holding under Gernon, came at length to be proprietors here [i.e. Salcot Virley]. For, by an inquisition upon the death of Aveline, wife to Edmund, second son of King Henry III in 1275, it appears, that Robert de Verley held four knight's-fees of the barony of Stansted, belonging to Gernon; viz. Toleshunt Darcy, Little Birche, Saltcote, Cofford, and Samantune. By which two last is meant part of Copford, and an estate here and in Peldon.
Edmund, (known as Edmund 'Crouchback') second son of King Henry III, lost his first wife, Aveline, in 1274. The inquisition post mortem upon her death (which was to record the lands she held which belonged to the Crown), indicates that Salcott Virley and the other estates listed, including Sampson's, were owned by the Gernon family and tenanted by Robert de Verley.
We learn more about Robert Gernon from the official website for Mountfitchet Castle in Essex
In 1066 the site was attacked by the Normans and Robert Gernon, the Duke of Boulogne, built his castle here, making it his chief seat and the head of his Barony. There is some evidence that Robert Gernon was a close relative of William the Conqueror.
Robert Gernon (or Robert Greno as he is referred to in the Domesday Book) came over from France with William
the Conqueror, and was rewarded with this Lordship and several others in the County. The male line of the
Gernon family continued for only five generations.
The time of Robert Gernon's death is unknown. William, his son and heir, dropped the name of Gernon and took
the name of Montfitchet, which was used thereafter by his descendants.
mountfitchetcastle.com/about-mountfitchet-castle/castle-history/
As we have seen, according to Morant, in 1275, Robert de Verley held Sampson's and the other places listed above for four knight's-fees as a tenant of the Gernons' barony of Stansted Mountfitchett.. This meant that de Verley was tenant of sufficient land to be required to provide the lord with four fully equipped knights for a certain period of time each year. The entry below would indicate the land at Salcott and Sampsons made him liable for one knight's fee.
In the rental of the lands belonging to the Barony of Stanstead, it is called one fee in Salcote Wigbergh and
Samanton in * le Peeke.
* Le Peeke will be a reference to the Manor of Pete / Peet Hall which was one of the principal Manors owning much of Peldon.
Morant gives the male lineage from Robert de Verley as far as two brothers, John and Roger de Verley, the
former, John, appearing in the 1517 Domesday of Inclosures as Lord of the Manor of Salcott Virley, indicating
these estates had been held by the same family in excess of 240 years. [See article on
Domesday of Inclosures]
St. Osyth Abbey
At the time of the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539, Sampson's was owned by St. Osyth Priory; how long it had been in the hands of this priory I have not discovered, possibly following on from the Gernons.
Work on the priory and the parish church in St. Osyth started in 1118. The village and surrounding manors together with many other parcels of land were given to the priory by the King and wealthy landowners as sources of income. The priory was founded in around 1120, and remained a home for the Austin/Augustinian Canons for about 80 years.
St. Osyth Priory was then raised to the rank of abbey and became one of the great Augustinian abbeys of Europe. Before the end of the 12th Century, it was one of the wealthiest religious houses in the kingdom.
An alternative name for Sampson's was 'Abbot's Wick' and along with the parcels of land named by Morant in his history of Essex, Abbot's four acres, Abbot's seven acres, Abbot's nine acres and Abbot's twenty acres, these reference the ownership by the abbey.
'Abbot's Wick' in Great Wigborough had also belonged to St. Osyth Abbey, not to be confused with either Peldon's 'Abbot's Wick' or Great Wigborough's 'Abbess Hall' owned by Barking nunnery until the dissolution. There is still a 16th century farmhouse called Abbots Wick in Wigborough.
In 1527 the dispute began between King Henry VIII and Pope Clement VII as a result of the Pope's refusal to annul the King's marriage to Catherine of Aragon. This was to bring about the dissolution of the monasteries and signal the end of English monasteries, abbeys and convents.
The King appointed himself as Head of the English Church in 1534 and much of the opposition to this sprang from the country's religious institutions. As a result Henry took the opportunity to strip monasteries, abbeys and convents of their considerable wealth and property holdings, pension off their monks and nuns and destroy their buildings.
Between 1536 and 1541 these confiscated lands and wealth in many cases were given to favoured ministers or
noble men by the King. Most of St Osyth Abbey's possessions were granted to Thomas Cromwell.
The end was soon to come. ...[on] the 28th of July 1539, The Priory [of St. Osyth] was surrendered to the King
by Abbot Colchester and 16 Canons... At the dissolution the Priory possessed among others the Manors of
Chich St. Osyth, Ampnerswick, Cocketwick, Howick, Welwick, Wyer's Hall or Withston Hall, in the parish of
Chich, Birch-ho in Kirby, Sampton in Peldon, Abbots in Wigborow, Brokehall in Tolleshunt Bushes,
Canhall in Great Clacton, Ramsey, and the Ray in Southminster, Abbots in Shalford, and Mile End Hall, near
Colchester, all in Essex, and of Burnt Illeigh, Stowmarket, and Stutton in Suffolk... The income of the
Priory was larger than that of any other Monastery in Essex, except Waltham Holy Cross and Barking...
[St Osyth's Priory Essex, Watney]
Upon Thomas Cromwell's fall from favour and subsequent beheading in 1540, St Osyth Abbey and its estates were returned to crown possession.
The Tey Family
The Teys were a family of considerable standing locally. By a series of advantageous marriages during the
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries they had acquired large estates in Aldham, Birch, Copford, Peldon, Layer
and the three villages to which they gave their name [Marks Tey, Great and Little Tey].
Mary Hopkirk: The History of Layer de La Haye
The Teys had a long history with the Manor of Peldon and according to the historian, Holman, who wrote
accounts of visits he made to Essex Churches in 1720, he saw, in a 14th century north window of Peldon's
church, Coats of Arms relating to the Tey Family, who once possessed the * advowson of Peldon.
* the advowson was the right to recommend or appoint the incumbent of the church
In Philip Morant's history of Essex he writes that Sampson's was held by Thomas Tey as tenant until his death in 1543 adding that Sampson's (and Newpots) had previously been owned by St Osyth Abbey.
Thomas Tey, of Layer Marney Esq; who died 20 April 1543, held lands and tenements called Newports, in Peldon;
and a capital messuage called Samptons Wyke in Peldon and Sampton; and all those lands, tenements &c.
belonging to the said capital messuage and the Wyke; and closes called Abbotts nine acres, Abbotts twenty
acres, Abbotts seven acres, and Abbotts four acres called Woodcroft, in Peldon and Sampton, with
appertenances, formerly belonging to the Abbey of St. Osith..
[Philip Morant The History and Antiquities of the County of Essex]
He [Thomas Tey] died in 1543, and was buried in a grey marble tomb on the north side of the chancel
[in Layer de La Haye Church]. This had two brass effigies and bore the inscription: "Of your charité pray
for the soules of Thomas Tey, Esquire, sometime of this town of Layer, and Jane, his wife, on who[se]
soules and all christen, Jeshue have mercy." The effigies and inscription had disappeared two hundred years
later, but the tomb remains, and is called erroneously "The De la Haye Tomb."
[Mary Hopkirk: The History of Layer de La Haye]
The tomb of Thomas and Jane Tey in Layer de la Haye Church.
The Petre family
The Manor of Peldon and Sampson's were granted by the Crown to Sir William Petre of Ingatestone following the
death of Thomas Tey but a document in Essex Record Office [D/DP E130] reveals he didn't hold Peldon's manor for long, requesting of the King, in effect, a swap for the Manor of Churchstow in Devon and the parsonage and church of Ginge Montenay [Mountnessing]. It appears, however, that Sampson's (separate to the Manor of Peldon) was later granted to the Petre family by the Crown as we shall see.
The Page Family
From later documents including family wills we know that the Page family held Sampsons for several generations, the Pages were probably copyhold tenants of the tenants-in-chief and were definitely living at Sampsons from 1532 when a 'John Page of Sampsons' is mentioned in a Great Wigborough will. As copyhold tenants they could still sell and bequeath the property to their descendants with the agreement of their lord.
Does this following document from the Feet of Fines, dated 1558, mark when the descendants of Thomas Tey of Layer de La Haye granted the copyhold to a Stephen Page? As we know the Page family already occupied Sampsons by then but it was usual upon the death of a copyholder to make a new agreement with his heir which is possible here. We do know John Tey was son and heir of Thomas Tey of Layer de la Haye and was married to Constance. And is this a description of the extent of Sampson's holding?
Feet of Fines: TRINITY, 4 AND 5 PHILIP AND MARY 41. [1558] Steph. Page, esq., pl. Jn. Teye, esq., &: w. Constance, def. 1 mess., 1 barn, 1 gdn., 100 a. ar., 40 a. mw., 100 a. pa. & 100 a. marsh in Peldon. £240.
If this is Sampson's it comprises a messuage, a barn, a garden, 100 acres of arable land, 40 acres of meadow land, 100 acres of pasture and 100 acres of marsh.
The next documentary evidence I have found is a Crown Lease (Letters Patent) dated 1570 to Robert Petre, gentleman.
of capital messuage called Sampsons alias Samptons and lands in Peldon (formerly parcel of the possessions of
the monastery of St. Osyth), at an annual rent of £8. [ERO D/DP E85]
Sampson's is next mentioned in the will of Thomas Page, yeoman of Peldon, written in 1583 and proved in 1591
Item I give to Brian Page my sonne all that my messuage or tenement lyinge in Peldon aforesaid called Samptons
with the growndes and other the appurten[au]nces thereto belonginge (except great faire feilde and Witcherlond
as they are nowe devided) to him and to his heires for ever. Item I give
to the said Brian my sonne all my growndes with the appurten[au]nces in Peldon aforesaid called
Abbottes Wicke and Samptons Wicke and the longe meadowe with all the feilde lyinge betweene the said meadowe
and Copthale out marsh fleete as it is devided with a hedge from the wall ende to the said meadowe to him and
to his heires for ever. [National Archives PROB 11-77-407]
The will of Thomas Page's son and heir, Brian Page, is dated 1602. In it, Brian Page leaves his brother
my house and land called Samtons and Samtons wick with there appurtinancis liinge In Peldon. [ERO
D/ACW 4/159]
While he leaves the farm to his brother, Stephen, Brian wills that upon his death his sister Elizabeth shall
have the income from the farm and the use of all his househould stuf for three years followed by his sister Ann who equally benefits from the farm for another three years.
He is very particular to demand his siblings keape the houses and yards and the seawalles in Good
Reparations
Sampson's had already been in the Page family's occupation for a long time by the time of Brian Page's death
in 1602; a John Page of Samptons appears in the will of John Brian from Great Wigborough in 1542/43 [D/ABW 3/83].
The paper trail for the Pages ends here and, moving forward over 100 years, we find the will of William
Blewitt [D/ABW 79/238] proved on 4th May 1709 but written in December 1707. In the will he leaves Sampson's to the son of Elizabeth Browne his sister. His nephew, George Browne, as a condition of inheriting the farm, has to ensure a £30 annuity to be paid to Blewitt's wife, Elianor, for life.
issuing and payable out of my Messuage or farme with the lands and App[ur]tin[en]ces thereunto belonging
called Samptons al[ia]s Samsons Wick.... scituate and being in Peldon aforesaid and now in my own occupation.
George Browne inherits the farm withall the lands meadows Marshes.
George was to allow his aunt, Elianor Blewitt, to live with him at Sampson's for one year following Blewitt's death as long as she did not remarry.
We next find a document in ERO dated 12 March 1715/16 between Edmund Raynham of Colchester, gentleman and Matthew Martin of Wivenhoe, a sailmaker pertaining to a number of properties which include a Messuage called 'Samptons' or 'Abbots Wick', Peldon.
Edmund Raynham was an attorney in Colchester and served as the town's mayor in 1722.
A chain of occupation is given filling in the gap between Stephen Page and William Blewitt.
A farm in Peldon called Samptons or Abbots Wicke or Sampton Wick formerly in occupation of Stephen Page
[inherited 1602] then of ... Leventhorpe gent[leman] then of Edmund Rolph, late of William Blewitt [died 1709]
and now of George Browne [1715] (290 acres); all late of John Unthink [died 1715], and on his death of George
and Hannah Martin [née Unthink] [ERO D/DC 5/122]
Frustratingly, these chains of occupiers don't give dates [the dates in square brackets are my own approximate estimates] and it is not possible to identify which member of the Leventhorpe family held the farm. The wealthy, landowning family, the Leventhorpes came from Sawbridgeworth and presumably never lived here. Neither is it possible to identify which Edmund Rolfe is referred to here. There are Rolphes in Peldon and in Langenhoe in the seventeenth and eighteenth century. Suffice to say, probably between the early to mid 1600s and the end of the century one of the Leventhorpes held Sampsons followed by Edmund Rolph before we're on safer ground with William Blewitt thanks to his will.
Then in 1720 a conveyance between Raynham and George Martin and his wife Hannah details an unnamed Peldon property. We know for certain fifty years later the Martin family had Sampsons and two other Peldon farms so it is not clear which farm this is referring to.
Messuage, 2 barns, 180 ac. of land, 10 meadow, 50 of pasture, 10 of wood, peldon [ERO D/DHt T203/11]
In 1733 there is another indenture between the Martins and Raynham for the same property.
A messuage, 2 barns, stabels gardens, 2 orchards, 180 ac. of land, 10 of meadow, 50 of pasture, 10 of wood,
etc., peldon [ERO D/DHt T203/4]
It is possible these indentures were all, in fact, mortgage loans from Raynham to the Martins.
In 1772 a marriage between William Fraser and Sarah Martin is listed at Essex Record Office and it would seem that Sarah was bringing three Peldon Farms to the marriage, 'Samptons Wicks, Newports & Walnetts'. Sarah was in fact the granddaughter of Matthew Martin and John Unthink and George and Hannah Martin née Unthink were her uncle and aunt.
In 1777 Chapman and Andre map produced a map of the area and Sampsons is marked (the map refers to the adjacent farm as 'Newmans' whereas it was more usually known as Newports or Newpots.) Here the configuration of the lane leading to the two farms is inaccurate - the lane is drawn straight rather than as a dog-leg.
detail of Chapman and Andre map of Peldon 1777
The next document found that refers to Sampsons is held at the London Metropolitan Archive
[Ref: MS 11936/391/608023]. This is an insurance document dated 13th November 1792 for Samuel
Bullock, farmer, issued by the Sun Fire Office. The other occupiers listed are Abbot, carpenter; James
Wells, carpenter; Robert Crick, carpenter, and the properties are Newports Farm, Sampsons Wick Farm.
We know James Wells had been apprenticed to Samuel Bullock's father as a carpenter in 1764.
Samuel Bullock was the last of several generations of his family who worked as carpenters in Peldon and so
successful was he that he became a significant landowner. It is known that he lived in Brick House Farm, also
farming the adjacent farms of Newpots, and Sampsons. The current owners of the three farms confirm
that they were farmed as one over a long period. When Samuel Bullock took on the lease for Sampsons has not so far been discovered but an advert in the Ipswich Journal on 11th May 1799 reveals he was giving up the lease at Michaelmas in 1800.
FARMS NEAR COLCHESTER
To be SOLD by AUCTION
SOMETIME THIS MONTH
Unless sooner disposed of by Private Contract
(Of which due notice will be given)
TWO Capital Farms adjoining each other, called
SAMPSONS and NEWPORTS, situate in the
parish of Peldon, containing near 400 acres of land,
now in the occupation of Mr. Samuel Bullock, under
a lease which will expire at Michaelmas 1800.
The Whole discharged of Land-tax. A part of the
purchase money may remain on the security of
the premises.
For further particulars enquire of Messrs.
Bullock and Arnold, Bedford-Row, London, or
Messrs. Josselyn, Belstea, Suffolk
Sampsons appears on a 1799 map, an early precursor of the OS maps (available if you search for 'Witham' on
www.oldmapsonline.org)
but although the lane leading to Sampsons and Newpots is depicted correctly as a dog-leg the names of the two farms seem to be transposed.
The next reference to Sampsons we find is in the will of James Wiles who died 12th April 1823
[ERO Dl/C/484/130/1]. Was he the successful bidder in 1800?
His wife Phoebe died in 1832 having kept on Brick House until her death and her will is at Essex Record Office. Her parish is given as All Saints, Colchester.
James Wiles names John Dakins and Bezaliel Bloomfield executors. John Dakins was the rector of St. James, Colchester, who also took services at Peldon and provided the village with curates. The will indicates James Wiles was formerly of Peldon but late of St James (crossed out then St Martins inserted), Colchester. Witnesses to the will are Isaac Webb, Thomas Bray Dakins (son of John Dakins) and William Fisher Brill, an actuary from St. James's parish.
James Wiles left his property divided between his wife, Phoebe and their only child, a daughter, Phoebe Ann May married to a Peldon Farmer, James May.
All my Freehold Estates known by the Names of
Sampson's Wick and New Ports in the Parish of
Peldon, together with all my Stock Crops and
property of whatsoever kind thereupon Shall be
Sold by public Auction or private Sale
He requests his executors get him the best price and sell either as a whole or in parcels
Following the deaths of James Wiles and his wife, Phoebe, an auction is advertised in the newspaper for the whole estate in one Lot comprising Brickhouse Farm, Sampsons and Newport Farm described as
Important and Valuable Freehold Estates ....containing Four Hundred and Eighty Six Acres of rich Arable and Pasture Land, with two highly respectable Residences thereon, the whole promising an excellent Investment for Capital
BRICK-HOUSE Estate, desirably situated in
the pleasant and healthy village of Peldon, within seven miles
of Colchester, twelve of Maldon, and twenty-one of Chelmsford; it
contains twelve acres of arable and pasture land, on which is a res-
pectable Family Mansion, approached from the road by a gravel
walk, and lawn in front. The mansion commands fine veiws of Mer-
sea Island, the Blackwater River, and beautiful scenery, as far as the
eye can distinguish of the surrounding country; double coach house
and stable, with granary over, chaise-house, riding house, stable,
cow-house, double cottage, and extensive garden, tastefully laid out,
and in part inclosed with a brick wall, clothed with choice fruit
trees. Sampsons Farm, containing three hundred and sixty acres of
fine rich arable and pasture land, on which is a commodious Farm
House, fitted up with requisite domestic conveniences, chaise-house,
and riding-horse stable; the agricultural buildings comprise two
barns, stables, bullock and horse sheds, cart and waggon lodges, fowl-
house, and piggeries. Newport Farm, containing one hundred and
fourteen acres of rich arable pasture, and marsh land, with double
cottage residence, garden and orchard; barn stable granary, cart
lodge, and inclosed cattle yard. The whole of the above property is
lying within a ring fence; the buildings are in substantial repair and
the land in a superior state of cultivation, surrounded by good hard
roads, and at convenient distances from excellent market towns.
There is a wharf on the estate affording every facility for shipping
corn, etc to the London markets. The land has been farmed in a
manner which renders it equally desirable from its cultivation as also
for its fertility of soil. The estate will be sold, subject to a lease be-
ing granted to a most respectable tenant, for a term of 14 or 21 years,
at a rental which will be stated in the particulars.
[Morning Herald London August 1824]
Perhaps the "most respectable tenant" proved to be a Mr. D Cooper for in an advert in 1830 six years later there is another Live and Dead Stock sale.
SAMPSON'S, OR MARSH FARM, PELDON, ESSEX
18 TRUE-BRED SUFFOLK CART COLTS,
ALL CHESTNUTS;
Capital Farming Live and Dead Stock and Effects,
By W. K. DAWSON
On Friday, the 24th Day of September, 1830, by Direction of
the Proprietor, Mr. D.COOPER, who is quitting that Farm,
having hired one in Suffolk.
The Live Stock consists of seven very superior
2-year old Suffolk colts, seven yearling ditto, two
suckerels, a draught horse, a very excellent hackney, 6 years
old, quiet in harness, and a good roadster; 96 shearling wether
sheep, seven couple of sheep and lambs, four home-bred heifers,
three polled cows, a 2-year-old bull, and about 20 pigs;
ploughs, harrows, rolls, corn drill, two horse power thrashing
machine, 60 hurdles, and numerous other farming effects.
[Suffolk Chronicle 11th September 1830]
In the tithe awards for Peldon, published in 1840, the owner of Sampsons was wealthy Saffron Walden businessman, George Wyatt Gibson who owned many of the farms and land in the village
From the tithe awards, the farms Wyatt George Gibson owned that can be identified are Brick House Farm, White House (now Sampton Wick), Newpots, and Sampsons along with many other houses and parcels of land.
The Gibsons were a wealthy Quaker family who lived in Saffron Walden, owned a brewery, bank and several pubs, and were influential in their home-town in the nineteenth century.
It is likely Gibson was the successful bidder for the Brick House estate, which included Sampsons, in 1824. Gibson's tenant in 1840 was Alexander Turnage.
Sampsons, the farmhouse, is not a listed building but its weather boarded barn [See Appendix 2] is Grade II listed and was built in the time of Gibson's ownership. Its description is as follows
Built in 1839, a 6 bay timber framed and weatherboarded barn, with grey slate roof. Two gabled midstreys to
south. Side purlin roof with integral ridge board, and tie beams with hanging knees
britishlistedbuildings.co.uk or
historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1224765
In Peldon's Electoral Rolls, Alexander Turnage appears as occupier of Sampsons from 1847 to 1854, (the entry 'Turner' in 1845 could be him)
Turnage is listed in Peldon's 1851 census as a farmer of 221 acres employing 7 labourers. Aged 67 he was born in Layer de La Haye and is listed with his wife, East Mersea born Jane Rootrey Turnage, son, Moses, a widowed daughter, Sarah May Phillips, a niece and a female servant. He appears also in the 1841 census living in Peldon employed as an agricultural labourer.
In the censuses for 1861 a John Talbot, born in Peldon, is bailiff for the farm, living at Sampsons with his wife, Sarah, and a three year old relative [their grandchild], Angelina Cousins, who, as we will see later, went on to marry Henry 'Harry' Smith and moved back to her childhood home, Sampsons, with her family.
In 1868, John Talbot had the dubious honour of shooting a rare Egyptian Vulture as he was slaughtering his
geese for Michaelmas. [See the Egyptian Vulture ] The story in the newspapers relates that he was a
labourer who had charge of an off-hand farm of Mr. [Henry] Woodward of Stanway Hall.
The Chelmsford Chronicle Friday October 16 1868
The electoral roll of 1861 lists Stephen Waller (Henry Woodward's brother-in-law) as being the occupier of the farm.
In the 1871 census he is in the same position although this time the census tells us he is in charge of 214 acres and employs 5 men and 2 boys.
The family clearly continued to farm in Peldon for in the Kelly's trade directory of 1874, Arthur Waller Woodward, Henry's son, is listed as the farmer of Sampsons.
In May 1879 with the death of Arthur Waller Woodward, the lease for Sampsons was advertised with possession at Michaelmas.
That Desirable FARM called Sampsons, well
situated near the village, containing a suitable
Dwelling-house, Homestall, and 235 Acres of good
Productive Arable Meadow and Marsh Land.
[Essex Weekly News 9th May 1879]
A Live and Dead Stock Auction for Sampsons is advertised in the local newspapers
by order of the Representatives of the late Mr. A W Woodward
Held on 9th October 1879 the sale comprised
10 Powerful Cart Mares and Geldings,
4 Two-year-old Cart Colts,
Yearling Roan Cart Ditto
Bay Nag-Horse Colt,
Pure-bred Berkshire Boar,
8 In-pig Sows,
40 Strong Shotes,
44 Store Pigs,
Poultry
Three iron and wood-arm wagons, three wood-arm
tumbrels, 14-coulter corn and seed drill (by Smyth),
horse hoe, jointed iron roll, iron scarifier, crab
harrow, two wood rolls, three sets of iron harrows
and whippletrees, three iron ploughs (by Bentall),
wood hurdles, oat and bean crusher, oilcake breaker,
bean mill, iron pig troughs, weighing machine and
weights, mash tub and stand, three ladders, plough
and cart harness, forks, rakes, etc etc
In the 1881 census the farmhouse had clearly been divided into two dwellings. Samuel Clark, a shepherd aged 32, born in Salcott, wife Ellen, aged 26, born in Peldon and three daughters are at Sampsons while Charles Frost, a 47 year old agricultural labourer born in Messing and his wife Mary, son and daughter are in the other half of the farmhouse. We can flesh out the Frosts' story from the newspaper obituary of their son, William, in 1938. It reveals the family moved to Peldon circa 1878 and William, then a teenager, assisted his father, who was a horseman, on the farm at Sampsons for a number of years.
In 1891 the occupant of Sampsons is George Ponder a 59 year old agricultural labourer from South Benfleet, with wife Mary aged 50 from Abberton, 2 sons and a daughter. A second family are living in the building, that of Thomas J Butcher aged 33, a shepherd, born in St Osyth, Annie his wife, aged 24, from Brightlingsea, a son, daughter and brother-in-law (Davies).
In 1901 Sampsons is not specified nor are any of the other properties in the immediate vicinity, the census
simply lists Sampsons Lane while Newpots Lane is not listed at all. At that time the other buildings down the lane were Newpots farmhouse (now demolished) and the house known today as Englesbatch (which seems to have been two labourers' cottages in the past).
All those listed in 1901 who lived along the lane, George Ponder, George King, Henry Alderton and George
Ponder senior are all listed as separate households in unnamed cottages. We know Alderton was in Newpots ten
years before in 1891 as was Thomas King while G Ponder senior was in Sampsons. This might indicate the Ponders had stayed living in Sampsons farmhouse over two decades, being there still in 1911.
Harry and Angelina Smith
Now we come to occupants of Sampsons for whom we have photographs and biographies, Harry and Angelina Smith. [See Appendix 1]
It is believed the couple moved to Sampsons circa 1905, for Angelina this represented a return to her childhood home with her grandparents where, as we have seen, she is listed as a three-year old in the 1861 census. Harry and Angelina stayed at Sampsons until 1934 when, in retirement, they moved to live in Forge Cottage, Church Hill, Peldon.
In the 1911 census Harry and Angelina Smith are in Sampsons (described as both a 'cottage' and 'Sampsons Farm') as is George Ponder Senior aged 79. He is widowed with a son and a family of three lodgers called Smith.
In the 1918 electoral roll Harry and Angelina Smith are living at Sampsons. In 1920 Henry William Smith of
Sampsons is listed as being one of the two churchwardens in Peldon. He is probably also the Smith mentioned as
Churchwarden from 1913 - 1919 [ERO D/P 287/8/3 Vestry Minutes] He then continued in this role until he died in 1943.
Harry and Angelina also appear at Sampsons in the 1929 electoral roll with sons Luther, Fred, Sidney and Frank.
This photograph of Sampsons, is believed to have been taken in 1928 when Harry Smith's family were
tenants. In the background is the barn which is now Grade II listed and has been converted into two private
houses. I think this is Harry posing with possibly a daughter or daughter-in-law who also appears in the next photograph.
This photograph, believed to have been taken in 1928, shows many of the farm buildings. I believe the elderly couple on the left in the background are Harry and Angelina Smith, the tenants. The younger woman with them is possibly their daughter or daughter-in-law and the three girls their granddaughters.
During WW2 along with many other farms, Sampsons was taken over by the War Agricultural Committee. Farmers were evicted, the farmer running Brick House, Newpots and Sampsons, Mr Butt, was evicted (as was another Peldon farmer, Stanley Ellis of Pete Tye Farm) and 'War Ag' approved farmers took over in an attempt to improve food production.
At the end of the war, in 1945, advertisements appeared in the newspapers advertising these farms were now available to let.
Locally, Brickhouse, Sampsons, & Newpots Farm, Peldon, with an acreage of 508 were advertised and the following year the Davidson family arrived in Peldon; today the family is still farming the greatly-added-to acreage of all three farms.
* * *
In Kay Gilmour's history of Peldon, she relates that the parish well was sunk opposite Brick House Farm at the end of Newpots Lane and explains the lengths the residents of Sampsons had to go to in order to access fresh water.
Many residents today (1955) recall the time when their husbands had to fetch every drop of water from the
well in buckets, on chains suspended from wooden halters across their shoulders. And as late as 1940 the
inhabitants of Sampsons could be found any day wending their way along the mile long lane to the pump outside
the Plough Inn, pulling after them a strange galvanized contraption - a water butt on wheels.
[Kay Gilmour: Peldon - Village Over the Marshes ]
In the floods of 1953 the sea wall by Sampsons was breached in twenty one places, the largest being 42 yards.
It was related that
Sampson's Farm had more wall down than standing (the wall walker had got caught by the incoming tide on one
section of wall standing; flooded all round he was rescued by boat) The Great Tide - Hilda Grieve
There are no stories of the farmhouse being flooded but it is highly likely it was.
In the 1970s the house was uninhabited and dilapidated and a neighbour recalls a sheep being found inside
having managed to get up to the first floor.
The current owners, the Davidsons, tell me
Sampsons was 2 cottages with 2 staircases ...when we converted it from a derelict shell Liz Davidson by
Email
Sampsons Farm boarded up prior to renovation with the Grade II listed barn to the right which was to be
converted in 2006 into two dwellings, Oyster Barn and Teal Barn [picture courtesy of Heritage Statement by
Plater Claiborne]
Between then and now the farmhouse has been renovated and now provides a family home for the farmer, nephew of Liz Davidson, and his family; should the deeds come to light then we may be able to fill in some gaps!
Sampson's distinctive roof can just be glimpsed beyond the barn
Elaine Barker
Peldon History Project
Thanks to
Robert and Liz Davidson
Pat Moore
Appendix 1 Harry and Angelina Smith
Peldon People Harry and Angelina Smith
MR and MRS HENRY WILLIAM SMITH of Sampson's Farm, Peldon, who reached the 60th anniversary of their wedding on Tuesday, having been married at Peldon Parish Church on October 22 1875. Mr Smith, a native of Peldon, is in his 82nd year. He has always enjoyed good health and is still active. He started farmwork at the age of eight years, receiving 4d per day for his services and the last 40 years of his working life were spent in the employ of different members of the family of the late Mr Fairhead. Sampson's Farm where Mr and Mrs Smith have lived for 30 years, is remote from the actual village, and it is a long walk to the Parish Church, but Mr Smith is very regular in his attendance morning and evening, and has held the office of Rector's warden for 20 years. At the centenary celebrations of the Church of England Day School held two years ago he was given a place of honour as the oldest 'old boy'.
Mrs Smith who was born at West Mersea and is in her 79th year. She enjoys a fair measure of health and is able to perform household tasks, but is seen in the village only when an opportunity comes along for a motor ride.
Of their seven sons, six served with the Forces during the War; one already in the Army in India remained
there; another, a reservist in Canada came over to do his bit, and the remaining four joined up. All were
spared to make a safe return. There are two daughters living and seven grandchildren. Essex County
Standard 26.10.1935
'GRAND OLD MAN' On Sunday November 15 Mr Harry Smith celebrated his 83rd birthday and whereas his years permit
him to lay claim to the title 'Grand old man' in appearance he looks no older than 70. For twenty years he has
held the office of rector's warden, and he was able to spend a good part of the day at the parish church.
Mr Smith is a native of Peldon and has been a farm worker since the age of eight years. He spent about 40
years of his life working in the employ of different members of the family of the late Mr Fairhead. In
October of last year he and his wife celebrated their diamond wedding having been married at the parish
church in 1875. At the centenary meeting of the Church of England Day School held three years ago, Mr Smith
was given a place of honour as the oldest 'old boy'. Essex County Standard 21.11.1936
OCTOGENARIAN'S DEATH
After a long illness Mrs Angelina Smith passed away on Tuesday at the age of 80. The deceased was the daughter
of Mr and Mrs Cousins of West Mersea and on the death of her mother, which took place during her childhood,
was adopted by her grandparents, Mr and Mrs Talbot of Sampson's Farm, Peldon. At the age of 18 she married
Mr Henry William Smith, who was employed as a farm worker by the late Mr Fairhead of Brick House Farm,
Peldon. After 30 years of married life, several of which were spent at Home Farm, on the Mersea Road, they
settled down at Sampson's, her former home, and it was here that the diamond wedding was celebrated in
October 1935. It was not until last year that they left the farm to move into Forge Cottage, a smaller and
more convenient house. Mrs Smith was held in high esteem. Although united by marriage to a Church Of England
family, she retained the Non-conformist sympathies of her parents, and members of long standing on the
Methodist Church roll recall the days when she was a staunch supporter of the services held in barns and
cottages before the erection of the chapel in 1893. The deceased leaves a widower, two daughters and seven
sons, six of whom served with the Forces in The Great War, being every one spared to make a safe return.
Essex County Standard 5.2.1938
PELDON VETERAN'S DEATH
Within a month of his 90th birthday, Mr Henry William Smith passed away at Forge Cottage, Peldon on Friday Oct.15 and the village loses one who was held in highest esteem.
Born at Peldon on Nov 15 1853, and son of William Smith, an agricultural worker, he made early acquaintance with the land, starting work at the age of 8 years for a wage of 4d per day. He also attended the Church of England Day School and at the centenary festival held in 1933 was given a place of honour as the oldest 'old boy'.
About 40 years of his life were spent in the employ of members of the family of the late Mr Fairhead and the greater part of every Sunday was devoted to the parish church which for 28 years he served as Rector's warden, being in office up to the time of his death. At the vestry meeting held last year Mr Smith stated that his memory carried him back to the restoration of the building in 1858.
His office was no bar to friendship with local Methodists and he was a frequent worshipper at afternoon
service and on special occasions. In 1875 he married Miss Angeline Cousins of West Mersea and their diamond wedding was celebrated in 1935. A year later Mrs Smith passed away. There are seven sons and two daughters. Six of his sons served in the last war and were spared to make a safe return.
The deceased had, throughout his long life enjoyed excellent health. Essex County Standard 29.10.1943
Appendix 2 Sampson's Barn
This was the last agricultural use of the barn before it became redundant as a farm building [picture
courtesy of Heritage Statement by Plater Claiborne]
As we have seen the Grade II listed barn was built in 1839 during the ownership of George Wyatt Gibson. It lies to the west of the farmhouse and to the east is a large hay barn.
It ceased to be used for farming purposes in the late 1970s and permission was granted by Colchester Borough Council for it to be converted into two dwellings in 2006, Oyster Barn and Teal Barn.
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